Introduction
So let me just say from the start...there's no perfect way to explore the culinary world of San Francisco. From Steve Rinella's foraging in Golden Gate Park to Andrew Zimmern's rummaging through trash cans, the rolling hills of the Bay Area's famed city has captured the hearts and taste buds of many a food adventurer and everyone has their opinion on what's the best of the best. However, the following guide is not in any kind of way an opinion from a critic or a complete or concise way to see the city. It is just a guide from a guy who lived in this beautiful, foggy city and romped in its cuisine.
Since I moved from SF a year and a half ago, some of these places may have changed (if they have, my words will be their memoir). But I'm pretty sure most of them will still be around for quite some time. Many are old classics, and some are new classics and hold the "foodie" mark of approval. Others are just places we happened into, liked, and returned to, partly because of proximity, but mostly because they were good. There may also be places that I haven't included and will be mocked for not mentioning. That is where the "Comments" section comes in handy. Mock away...I am at your disposal, but please mention your suggestions for my dear readers.
Unlike my other guides, I have not included a travel route (although if you ask nicely, I've got all kinds of ideas), but have just given you a list of the places my wife and I frequented when we ventured out from our small apartment at Polk and Union. The guide will begin in the north with my first post on Fisherman's Wharf and North Beach. From there, I'll move south with two more posts on the sometimes strange, but always intriguing neighborhoods of SF. My hope is that you will form your own adventures around these spots, discovering the neighborhoods, streets, nooks and crannies of the city. I am confident however that if you find yourself wandering this city, you will not be disappointed with any of the spots on this list. Some are better than others, but all engender the taste and feeling of San Francisco and offer the fearless eater a wealth of adventures. So enjoy and happy food adventuring!
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The Neighborhoods and Some Food Adventuring Suggestions
Fisherman's Wharf
Iconic, historic, and the classic San Francisco tourist trap, this is where
all the travel guides tell you to go. It is of course the home of many t-shirt shops, Italian restaurants boasting "The BEST Cioppino in SF," an In/Out Burger, the SF Aquarium, a hand full of art galleries, good views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Ghiradelli Square, and a Hooters. While this might be enough to entertain some folks, it really is just worth the view, a bag of chocolate to take home to your mom, and the following two spots.
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| Photo: Fred Hsu |
Dungeness Crab at Jefferson and Taylor
The heart of Fisherman's Wharf is the cross street between Jefferson and Taylor. Here you will find the famed sign of Fisherman's Wharf, wide-eyed tourists, and street side stands selling fresh Dungeness Crab. While taking your picture can be left to the tourists, it is completely worth the trip here to taste fresh crab right off the boat. While a bit pricey for what you get, you can order crab cakes, seafood chowder, cioppino, or just fresh cold lump crab meat from the stands. This is a great way to get a little snack and a taste the Bay Area's famed crab.
The Buena Vista Cafe
Walking a few blocks west from Jefferson and Taylor, you'll eventually reach Waterfront Park at Hyde Street. Waterfront Park is a great place to walk out on the pier and take fantastic pictures of the Golden Gate Bridge. But when you're done doing your tourist thing, walk up Hyde a block to the Buena Vista Cafe, the home of the original Irish Coffee. This was one of the first places my wife took me when we came to San Francisco and it is a fantastic way lubricate yourself before gallivanting around the city. They have a fantastic Dungeness Crab Omelet and Sourdough Bread to pair with your beautifully made irish coffee.
Perfected in 1952 by owner Jack Keoppler and travel writer, Stan Delaplane, the Buena Vista Irish Coffee is just that...perfect. A beautiful balance of coffee, cream, and whiskey, it will make anyone happy, relaxed, and chilled out. A great way to be in the hazy, foggy city of San Francisco. Even if you don't like coffee or whiskey, you have to try this one. It's just that good. Once you are sufficiently chill, you can catch a ride on a cable car up Hyde street to visit Lombard St. or the Russian Hill Neighborhood (which I'll address in my next post). Now, a quick word of advice on catching cable cars.
First, you do not have to wait in the long line at the bottom of any cable car track. This is just a way they like to queue the tourists. You can easily wait at the stops up the street, marked by the cable car stop signs. Second, once stationed at the cable car stop sign, when you see a cable car coming wave it down. Third, when the cable car stops, feel free to jump on the outside spots if there are any or, even better, ask the conductor where there are spots. But be quick, they don't like you to mess up their schedule. That's it...then you can pay when you're on ($5 per rider, I think). And no, they won't forget about you...they want your money.
North Beach, aka "That Italian Neighborhood"
When I lived in SF, I always took pity on tourists when I'd find them on the corner outside of our apartment, map in hand, and confused beyond belief. I'd ask nicely if they needed any help and inevitably they'd be looking for one of two places, "the curvy street" or "that Italian neighborhood," or Lombard St. and North Beach. Both are San Francisco classics, but again tourist traps. Here are a few spots in North Beach: two of which aren't touristy, and one of which is, but worth a visit anyway.
Trattoria Contadina
Needless to say, there are a lot of Italian cuisine options in North Beach. As the Little Italy of SF, you'll be heckled by restaurant hosts, trying to get you to eat at their restaurant. Some may even offer you a free glass of wine. And hey, if you feel the vibe is right, then go for it. But if you are looking for a small, quiet, moderately priced, classic Italian restaurant, then head up Union St. after you've wandered the neighbohood to Trattoria Contadina.
We discovered this place after several mediocre meals in North Beach and it quickly became our go-to Italian spot in North Beach. Oozing a local vibe, it is off of the main strip and thus doesn't get filled with wandering tourists. It does however book up fast with locals, so make sure to get a reservation if you're visiting on the weekend. On the menu, you'll find a host of Italian classic dishes and pastas, all well priced, really good, and made with a focus on organic, sustainable ingredients. My favorite is their Carlesimo pasta, a bed
of rigatoncelli pasta topped with pancetta, porcini mushrooms, peas, sun-dried tomatoes and a mildly spiced tomato cream sauce. A perfect meal in a wonderful restaurant to warm you up as the fog rolls in and the clang of the cable car rings past.
Vesuvio and City Lights Bookstore
Alongside the Italian culture, North Beach is also known for its role in the 50s and 60s Beatnik literary movement. While most of the hippies were dropping acid in The Haight and Golden Gate Park, Jack Kerouac, Alan Ginsberg, Philip Whalen, Gary Snyder, Lawrence Ferlinghetti and more were leading and documenting the cultural revolution with their writing. Their headquarters, City Lights Bookstore, was run by Ferlinghetti and was an epicenter for many beat poets, writers, and the odd songster, like Bob Dylan. Today, City Lights remains an amazing liberal bookstore with a vast collection of new and classic literature. Be sure to visit the poetry room upstairs, which holds one of the most amazing collections of beat poetry for retail. Once you've got a few books to pour over, head next door to Vesuvio for a drink.
There's nothing too frilly about Vesuvio, but it's funky atmosphere lends to the whole Beat experience in North Beach. It was here that many a poet or revolutionary, including Jack Kerouac before he headed down to Big Sur, wet their whistles before breaking down for the masses. Today, it's just a great bar with good specials and a fun, relaxed atmosphere. In the evenings, they still have jazz and poetry readings, which are great if your in the area. All in all, if you're Irish Coffee buzz is fading, grab one of their house cocktails before you continue with your adventures.
Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store
Situated perfectly on Washington Square, the main park in North beach, "the cigar bar" is one of those unique, old school, slightly divey, but always perfect spots. It's a great addition after a drink at Vesuvio to get a sense of the Beat vibe of North Beach and to sit in the afternoon for lunch, a carafe of wine, people watching, poetry writing, or whatever you might fancy. They have great paninis and pizzas, which pair beautifully with their house carafes of red or white wine. Worth a stop and not too pricey, just like Kerouac would have liked it.
La Trappe
This last spot in North Beach isn't famous, but it always hit the spot when all I wanted were some mussels, fries, and a beer. A small cafe up top, La Trappe is transformed into a fairly large underground Belgian beer bar downstairs. Wooden tables and stone walls create a cellar like atmosphere that is definitely a popular spot for locals. With their Belgian taps changing each week, there is always a new brew to try here. If you're not too into Belgians, their Moules Frites alone are worth the trip. Fresh and crispy, they're accompanied with many mayo dipping sauces, from wasabi mayo to curry ketchup. For the beer lover on the north end of SF, La Trappe is a perfect spot for dinner, lunch, or an afternoon beer along your food adventuring travels.
Stay Tuned....The Food Adventurer's Guide to SF continues soon: Russian Hill and The Marina
